I’ve been traveling to Costa Rica regularly for nearly 20 years, so I’ve experienced both the dry and rainy seasons in different regions across the country. I love Costa Rica rain or shine, but for first-time visitors, rain tends to be a big concern (join any Costa Rica travel group online, and you’ll see rain is one of the most talked-about topics) — so much so that many avoid Costa Rica entirely during the rainy season.
Well, I decided to do the opposite.
I recently spent a month traveling around Costa Rica during the rainy season, also called green season, and wrote about my experience for Yahoo Travel. (Keep an eye on Instagram; I’ll be sharing more there soon).
The short of it is this: Traveling to Costa Rica during green season is an adventure, and if you have a good rain jacket (this is the one I wear) and an even better attitude, you might just have some great luck and the trip of a lifetime. You can also find some good deals and peaceful experiences, sans the high season crowds.
If you’re heading to Costa Rica and want to recreate some of my recent itinerary, here are the hotels I stayed at. (And if you’re looking for suggestions on what to pack for rainy season, scroll down to the “What to pack” section below.)
San José and the Central Valley
- Hotel Presidente (San José): A boutique hotel in central San José, within walking distance of the Central Market, National Theater, museums, and more.
- Hotel Quelitales (Cachí): A family-run eco-lodge off the beaten path, with a waterfall on site. Lovely cabin stay between San José and the Caribbean, perfect for birders and nature lovers.
Caribbean
- Le Cameleon (Playa Cocles): A boutique hotel with an open-air restaurant on the beach and rooms set in the forest across the street.
- Banana Azul (Playa Negra): I didn’t stay here on this most recent trip, but this is an adults-only hotel on the black sand beach that I’ve enjoyed in the past.
Sarapiquí
- Chilamate Rainforest Eco Retreat: A family-run ecolodge on the Sarapiquí River with opportunities for whitewater rafting, night hikes, birdwatching, community-based activities (such as salsa lessons and cooking workshops), and more. I have been visiting this ecolodge for almost 20 years, and it remains one of my favorite places to experience rural Costa Rica. The owners genuinely care about the environment (this is a vital wildlife corridor) and actively work to protect and preserve it.
- Selva Verde Lodge: This ecolodge is also located on the Sarapiquí River, making it a great base for enjoying outdoor activities. I loved the elevated wooden walkways leading to the cabins and also loved watching the river from the suspension bridge here.
Arenal and La Fortuna
- Tabacón Thermal Resort & Spa (Arenal): Love the variety of hot springs pools here and on a clear day, you can see the volcano from the pool bar. Rainy days are just as good here, whether you hang out in the hot pools, get a spa treatment, or do as I did one drizzly afternoon there: sip champagne on your private balcony while watching the toucans in the trees.
- Regina Hotel (Fortuna): This budget hotel is conveniently located in La Fortuna so you can easily walk to the shops and restaurants around town. It’s no-frills, basic and clean, and some rooms have something most budget hotels don’t: a private balcony with a view of Arenal Volcano. Important note: There is no elevator, so this may not be suitable for everyone. The staff does offer to help with bags if needed.
Guanacaste (coast)
- Olas Verdes (Nosara): Surfers (and non-surfers who adore the outdoors) will love this location — there’s a private trail from the hotel to Playa Guinoes
- Las Catalinas: Some of my favorite things here include the immediate access to hiking and biking trails, beaches with options for paddleboarding and other watersports, and, of course, the sunsets. This little car-free town is generally quiet and there’s a wellness center on-site, so it’s great for travelers seeking some R&R.
- Andaz Peninsula Papagayo Resort: I’m still dreaming of the panoramic views from my king bayview suite on my recent stay. This resort is also close to Liberia Airport, so you won’t have a long drive to reach it.
- Four Seasons Resort Peninsula Papagayo: Located at the end of the peninsula, this luxury resort is great for families, couples, and wellness travelers. Four Seasons also offers cultural activities on-site and off: I learned how to make pottery with a Chorotega artisan, and I also got an incredible intro to arts, culture, coffee, and cuisine on the full-day Blue Zone tour.
Guancaste (inland)
- Hacienda Guachipelin: Close to an active volcano, this is a fun place for outdoor adventures and observing geothermal activity. It’s also certified gluten-free so for Celiacs like me, dining is worry-free.
- Rio Perdido: With a thermal river, open-air spa, bungalows that blend with the forest, and SO MUCH wildlife (I saw my first armadillo here as well as trogons, motmots, monkeys, agoutis, and much more), this is a serene place for a reset. There are also adventure activities such as ziplining and river tubing.
What to pack for Costa Rica in the green season
Here are some essentials for your green season trip to Costa Rica:
Rain jacket: This should be the first thing you pack on any trip to Costa Rica. No matter what the weather forecast says, it can be sunny one minute, and a full-on downpour the next. Choose a waterproof jacket; one that is only water-resistant will not keep you dry. You can find the same one I have here.
Bug spray: This is my favorite mosquito and bug repellent. It’s a long-lasting, non-greasy and non-sticky lotion that works incredibly well and actually smells good. I find it much easier to apply than bug sprays, and I have successfully used it in many places, including hiking in Costa Rica, Spain, and Hawaii. You can find it here.
Sunscreen: This one is water-resistant (for up to 80 minutes) and made without oxybenzone and octinoxate. Trust me, even in the rainy season you’ll need sunscreen. I used mine every day in Costa Rica, whether I was hiking, heading to the beach, or wandering around town. You can find it here (note: It used to be called Solimo. Same formula, different label).
Quick-dry tops: It’s often hot and humid in Costa Rica, so it’s helpful to have clothing that is comfortable and quick-drying. This one has built-in support and comes in dozens of colors. If you’ve seen any of my photos from Costa Rica, you know I have this exact top in a couple of colors and wear them regularly. You can find it in many colors here.
Wide-brim UPF hat: The sun in Costa Rica is intense, even during the rainy season. Add another layer of sun protection with a wide-brimmed hat. (The exact hat I have is not currently available, but this one is very similar.)
Quick-dry pants: If you’re planning on hiking, these pants with pockets are great for keeping some essentials handy. I stuck my phone, snacks, and sunscreen in my pockets when wearing these on my recent trip to Costa Rica. They are not waterproof, but they are water-resistant and dry quickly. You can find them here.
Water-resistant bag: This tote converts to a backpack, so I used it as my beach bag, laptop bag, grocery bag, and hiking bag on my recent Costa Rica and Spain trips. I love the front zip pocket for my phone and medicine, and love the side pockets for my water and sunscreen. Two things to note: While this bag worked really well for me and my adventures (seriously, I carried it everywhere!), if you have broad shoulders, it may not fit well as a backpack. And the straps are not padded, so I wouldn’t use it for longer hikes. You can find it here in a variety of colors.
Fleece jacket: It gets cooler at higher elevations, epsecially when it’s raining, so if you’re planning to visit cloud forests (such as those in Monteverde and Poás Volcano National Park), bring a wool sweater or fleece jacket. This one I used on my recent Costa Rica trip is also water-resistant. (I’m wearing a men’s XS, but they make them in a range of colors and sizes for all genders).
